Sunday, January 31, 2016

Vogue 9157

Just in time for our 50 degree week I put the finishing touches on my new coat, V9157. It's way too warm to wear it now but I'm pretty sure things will cool off enough to wear it this season soon.

I made a straight 14 with no adjustments. The outer fabric is a wool nylon blend in a basket weave camel color that came from Fashion Fabrics. I have had mixed success with the site but this fabric is a winner. The slight brushed and checked look it really nice.  

The fabric was super drapey, I'm actually planning a skirt with the leftovers. The lining is Kasha satin and each lining piece is interline with Thinsulate, both from Vogue fabrics. The thinsulate might have been a mistake, it's really warm and I think the coat makes me look a bit puffy, but we'll see if it relaxes a bit. I did want the coat to have some structure. Since the coat was so puffy already I left off the shoulder pads, I didn't think more bulk would help.

The only change I made to the pattern was to try and sew the tab right onto the front piece. I just couldn't see carrying a separate tab piece around, seems really strange. It sort of worked... the collar is a bit wonky but I can deal. The back views show the collar, it is lined with sew in interfacing but it won't stand right. I may try to steam it again into place but I fear it just isn't stiff enough.

Things I love about this coat:

  • The Fabric, I think it's a nice and classic looking
  • The seam lines. Love the raglan and pocket lines.
  • The belt and collar
  • The lining is nice and soft and the coat is really warm
Things I don't love:

  • I've never been a fan of patch pockets for comfort of use but the look got me on this one, I had to use them rather than adding in-seam pockets which I did cut
  • The thinsulate, I think it just added too much bulk. I may feel differently the first time I wear it in freezing weather.
  • How heavy and awkward this was to sew. It was quite the workout and Bernie did not enojoy sewing the buttons or button holes.
Overall I am happy I made this. I made a coat! I'm pleased with that fact for now and perhaps some day when I find the perfect boiled wool I will make another coat. I've had a pea coat pattern in my stash for some time and now that I have learned some things with this coat I'm sure the next will be much smoother. 

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