Thursday, September 10, 2015

Southport Dress and Tank

My latest finished pieces are the Southport Dress from True Bias and a tank using leftover material from the dress.

 I cut a straight size 4 based on my bust measurement despite my hips being a size larger and my cup size nowhere near a C. I didn't bother grading or doing any adjustments to the dress since there seemed to be plenty of ease. I did shorten the dress by three inches (I'm 5'4") and I think I could have gone about an inch shorter there, I do step on the dress once in a while so I may raise the hem. I think the fit is fine but I might try sewing with a 5/8" seam allowance next time just to bring it in a hair.

The fabric is a linen/rayon blend I got at Joann. It wrinkles a bit but really it's not that bad. It's light and airy, perfect for the hot weather. You can't see it well in pictures but the weave of the fabric has slight polka dots (or boxes if you are Joann) to it which is right in line with my polka dot obsession. I so wish I had made this earlier in the season. I wore the dress twice so far and the tank a few times as well. Both are very, very comfortable. Funny thing about the fabric, I had been looking for a specific navy ikat at Joann but the store I was at didn't have it in stock. I spent so long in that store looking for something else I thought my husband was just going to leave me there. He's such an awesome trooper, he went back to the linen aisle and picked this up for me after I changed my mind and decided I wanted it while at the cutting table with my other fabric purchase of the day. He knew right where it was and did it with no complaints. Scored major points that day. But I supposed things even out when he brings me to the home-brew supply store. Anyway, back to the sewing.

My only complaint with the dress was that the neckline is a bit too low for me, so for the tank I raised the neckline by 1 inch. It made a big difference and I just feel more comfortable with a higher neckline. I thought this might happen and I was kicking myself for not making this adjustment with the dress. I used this tutorial on the true bias site adding about 10 inches in length and an extra 1/4" width to the size 4 bodice at the hipline. I added side slits as a design element, not because the top was too snug after basting it together, no, not at all for that reason... I actually really like the slits and I'll probably use them again in future versions.  I may try for more waist shaping but I'm not sure, the flowyness is pretty comfortable.

I made my own bias tape from the same material and boy was attaching that an exercise in frustration. It nearly disintegrated in my hands. At least the result is nice. I made a whole bunch at once and used an empty thread spool to store it on. I forget where I saw this tip but it worked so well I snapped a pic to share. I used the thread holder for a second spool to hold the bias tape while I attached it. This was so helpful, I don't know why I never thought of it before.

I'm pretty happy with these makes and I see more of them in my future. Unfortunately winter is coming so I am going to have to switch gears and make more cold weather appropriate items now. I have a few projects cut out so hopefully I can get some good sewing time in soon. I also really need to finish my post on the hudson pants. I've made 4 pairs and need to get photos.

No comments: